Istria abecedary: Ž is for Županski stol

The županski stol in Gračišće

Županski stol can be translated as a municipal or public table. Often made of simple rectangular or circular stone slabs set on stone pillars, this is where important community decisions were taken by a town's decision makers. You can still see these old stone tables in many places across Istria.

I've now reached the last letter of the Croatian alphabet and the end of my Istria abecedary! I hope you enjoyed it and learned a little bit about Istria along the way.

Istria abecedary: Z is for Zvonik

There's no W, X, or Y in the Croatian alphabet, so today I'm jumping from V to Z. But this does not mean my abecedary is now complete -- because this is not the last letter...

Z is for Zvonik

Every Istrian town and village has at least one church, but most often several. Interestingly, the zvonik (bell tower) is often completely separate from the church building, like here in Gračišće.

The bell tower is always the highest point of the skyline, and in some places you can climb it and enjoy the stunning panoramic views. Highly recommended! You can see the view from Gračišće's bell tower here.

Z is also for Završje, a charming hilltop town which is well worth a visit.

Istria abecedary: V is for Vino

Istria is a wine-making region that's especially known for its white Malvazija (Malvasia) wine. Other grape varietals grown here include Muscat, Pinot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Teran. Across Istria, signposted ‘wine roads’ lead visitors to small local producers where they can sample and buy locally produced wine. 

Istria abecedary: U is for Učka

The Učka is Istria's highest mountain and its best-known physical landmark. It's part of the Ćićarija mountain range, which is the northeasternly geographical boundary where Istria meets continental Croatia. At a height of 1401 metres, it can be seen from most parts of Istria. Locals here say that if the Učka is wearing a 'hat' (in the form of cloud cover), then it's going to rain!

U is also for Ulika, the Istrian word for olive. Olive trees grow across the peninsula, and Istrian olive oil has a delightful fruity taste.

Istria abedecary: T is for Tovar

Tovar is the Istrian word for donkey. Donkeys used to be a common sight here when they were used as working animals to carry and transport goods, especially up and down hilly terrain.

T is also for Tartufi, or truffle. Istria is one of the few regions in Europe where black truffles and the highly-prized white truffle can be found.

Istria abecedary: Š is for Šparoga

Šparoga is asparagus (Š is pronounced 'sh'). This is one of the many gastronomic delights that grow here in Istria. Asparagus  shoots make their appearance in the early spring, growing in forests. They have a strong and distinctive flavour, and are most commonly eaten scrambled with eggs, in risotto or with pasta and a drizzle of olive oil.

Istria abecedary: S is for Samanj

Pazin's samanj dates back to 1574!

Samanj (sajam in Croatian) is the word for a fair or market, often held once a month. There are many such markets in towns across Istria, which I listed in this post on markets in Istria. People come to these monthly markets not only to trade and buy goods, but also to socialize, catch up with friends, and see what's happening.

The only time I've experienced traffic in Pazin, the closest town to us, is on market day. Pazin's samanj dates back to 1574, and has been held on the first Tuesday of the month ever since! This is said to be Istria's biggest traditional fair, but my father says that there used to be many more stalls and traders, so today's samanj must be just a fraction of what it used to be. People used to sell their agricultural produce here, as well as livestock. Today the number of stalls selling fruits and vegetables is limited, and there are a few selling agricultural tools. Most of the merchandise for sale is cheap clothes, shoes, and household items, as well as plants and flowers in the spring and summer. Some traders are local, but many come from other parts of Croatia. 

S is also for Salamon Palace, an old building here in Gračišće that never fails to intrigue visitors.

Istria abecedary: R is for Rakija

After P comes R – because in the Croatian alphabet, there is no letter Q!

R is for Rakija

Rakija, similar to Italian grappa, is made by distilling the remains of grapes after they have been pressed for wine-making. If you visit Istria, you're bound to be offered a small glass of rakija before a meal, after a meal, or to celebrate a special occasion. It's also believed to have medicinal and disinfectant properties. Rakija is often mixed with different plants and fruits (like mistletoe, honey, green walnuts, cherries) to produce flavoured versions.

R is also for Roženice

This is a traditional Istrian wind instrument (also called sopele) similar to an oboe (and to the South Indian nadaswaram!). It's always played in pairs, with each musician playing one of a different size so that two different tones are produced, which is typical to the characteristic Istrian musical scale (Istarska ljestvica).

Istria abecedary: P is for Parenzana

Photo credit: Istria Tourist Board

Parenzana was the name of a narrow gauge railway that used to run from the Istrian coastal city of Poreč up to the port city of Trieste in Italy. Built in 1902 during the Austro-Hungarian Empire, this railway was 123 km long with 35 stations and a steam locomotive that used to transport passengers as well as freight.

The railway got its name from Parenzo, the Italian name for Poreč.

One of the towns with a station along this train line was Završje, a once flourishing commercial centre which went through a decline once the railway was discontinued in 1935 during Italian rule, and eventually almost completely abandoned.

Today this former railway line has been transformed into a popular and very scenic cycling and hiking route that winds its way from Croatia through Slovenia and on to Trieste, just like the steam locomotive once used to.

P is also for pomalo!

Istria abecedary: O is for Otok

A view of Sveta Katarina island from Rovinj's bell tower

Otok means island in Croatian, and Croatia is a country of islands, with over a thousand dotted around its Adriatic coastline. As for Istria, it has 58 islands.

The largest is the Brijuni archipelago, just off the coast of Fažana, which itself is made up of fourteen islands, the biggest being Veliki Brijun. This is also the site of a national park. 

O is also for Oprtalj. Have you been there?

Istria abecedary: Nj is for Njoki

Image source: Wikimedia

Continuing with this abecedary of all things Istrian, we come to the letter 'nj'. Nj is considered to be one letter of the Croatian alphabet because it makes one sound, which sounds like the 'ny' sound in onion.

Njoki is pronounced the same way as gnocchi in Italian [n(y)ok-ee]. This is an Italian speciality, and also a staple of Istrian cuisine. They're made with potatoes and flour, and served with different accompanying sauces.

Istria abecedary: N is for Nono

Above: My great-grandfather

Nono is the name for grandfather in Istrian dialect, from the Italian word nonno. Likewise, nona is the name for grandmother. This is what I used to call my grandparents.

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Istria abecedary: M is for Maneštra

At the Maneštra Festival in Gračišće

Maneštra is a typical Istrian dish: this is a thick soup, similar to Italian minestrone. Here in the village, there's an annual festival dedicated to this local specialty.

M is also for Mirna

This is the name of Istria's longest river. It has its source at a spring near Buzet, and joins the Adriatic Sea near the city of Novigrad, 53 km away.

The Mirna River (Photo credit: Istria Tourist Board)

M is also for Marenda, a light meal eaten between breakfast and lunch. 

M is also for Motovun, Istria's most photographed hilltop town, and the venue of one of Croatia's best-known film festivals.

Istria abecedary: Lj is for Ljestvica

A note on the Croatian letter 'Lj'. This is considered to be one letter in the Croatian alphabet, and is pronounced like the double L sound in 'million'. (Remember: the J is pronounced like a Y.)

Ljestvica means 'musical scale', and Istarska ljestvica refers to the musical scale unique to Istria. It's characterized by two-part singing which involves two singers singing together, but an octave apart, and using a technique of 'partial' nasal singing, ending with the two singers singing in unison. The second voice can be replaced by an instrument like sopele (a traditional woodwind instrument) or bagpipes.

This is difficult to describe in words, but this short video provides a useful demonstration:




This unique tradition of two-part singing and playing in the Istrian scale is recognized by UNESCO and was inscribed on its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2009.

Istria abecedary: L is for Lavanda

Lavanda is lavender, which grows abundantly in Istria.

L is also for Labin, one of Istria's most charming hilltop towns.

L is also for Loža. 

The Italian word is loggia, a covered gallery similar to a veranda or porch. This is a typical architectural feature in many towns and villages across Istria which dates back to Venetian times. You can see more examples in a previous post.

Istria abecedary: K is for Koza

Koza is the Croatian word for goat. The goat is the symbol of Istria, and is represented on the Istrian flag (above). Istria's goat is also found on the Croatian flag representing the region of Istria: it's on one of the five shields making up a crown above the central red and white checkered shield. 

K is also for Krasna zemljo

Krasna zemljo (beautiful land) is a hymn that was adopted in 2002 as the official anthem of the Istrian Region. The lyrics were written by Ivan Cukon in 1912, while the music was composed by Matko Brajša Rašan. The Croatian lyrics and their translation are available here. 

And here's a beautiful musical and visual representation of Krasna zemljo by the Croatian tourist office:



K is also for Konoba

A konoba is a tavern which is often family-run and serves traditional local dishes. The konoba is also the name for the cellar in a house where wine and other food is stored.

K is also for Kažun

Istria abecedary: J is for Jadran

Jadran (pronounced yadran – the J is pronounced Y) is the name for the Adriatic Sea in Croatian. Istria as a peninsula is bordered by the Adriatic Sea on all three sides, so its history and many aspects of everyday life are intrinsically tied to it.

J is also for Jugo, the warm wind that blows from the South and brings cloudy and rainy weather. 

Istria abecedary: I is for Istra

Continuing with this A to Z of Istria, today's post is short and sweet.

I is for Istra

Istra is simply Istria in Croatian (and Istrian). 

I is also for Istrijanski

And Istrijanski is the name for the Istrian language.

Istria abecedary: H is for Harmonika

Harmonika is the Croatian word for accordion, a popular instrument in Istria. Every celebration includes the lively and joyful sounds of the accordion – which is often accompanied by singing. When I hear an accordion being played in the village, I know something's up: a wedding, a birth, or another cause for celebration. 

You may be wondering... if harmonika is the word for accordion, then what's a harmonica (or mouth organ) called? In Istrian dialect, it's organić, while the Croatian word is usna harmonika.

H is also for Histri

The Histri were Istria's first inhabitants – they were an Illyrian tribe who lived on the peninsula around 1000 BC. This is how Istria got its name.

Istria abecedary: G is for Glagoljica

The Glagolitic alphabet dates back to the 9th century, and is the oldest known Slavic alphabet. It was in use in Croatia from the 12th to the 20th century. Glagolitic inscriptions can be seen in several places in Istria. These stone tablets with Glagolitic characters in the image above are found in Hum's town gate.